Hiking, Via Francigena

Day 21: Sutri to Monterosi

Retirement Reflections

More Decisions:
When planning this trip, we never made an exact plan of where we would be when. We knew that we wanted to complete  18 official stages, ranging in length from 13.4 km to 32.3 km. We figured that we would likely break up some of the longer stages, add in rest days and leave room for the unexpected. We loosely thought that adding 6 extra days to the 18 days defined by the stages should give us ample time to get to Rome. With that blind confidence we arranged a Home Exchange in Rome from June 24 – 29. Now with only 3 stages left (25.5 km, 22,8 km and 19.1 km) we are faced with an extra day. What would you do with it?

Hang out in a cafe?
Practice your golf swing?
Keep on walking?

Monterosi – We decided to break up the Sutri to Canpagnano di Roma section (25.4 km) and spend tonight in Monterosi (10 km). That gave us a very leisurely start to today, and allowed for a very relaxed walking pace…with extra breaks.

This turned out to be a very good thing. Our guidebook describes the first half of today’s walk as “passing through huge meadows and pasturelands”. That may be true for the second hour+ of the walk, but the first hour was nasty. We were on the roadway (shoulderless of course). That meant that we took a couple of steps, heard a car coming, jumped into the nearest bush,, took a couple of more steps and repeated the pattern all over again. Later we realized that there was an alternative route that we could have taken (adding on 3 km). I’m not sure how we missed that!

Sometimes the Camino is more about the people that you meet, and the experiences that you have, rather than the trail itself. Twice today we ran into Pascal, who we had met previously in Vetralla. Pascal had worked as Project Manager In the automobile industry in Germany. Faced with the realization that his values and those of his chosen profession were not aligned, he resigned from his position this past April and began walking. Clocking up over 1400 kms, Pascal used this time to rethink and reset. It was a very brave thing to do. Our conversation with him was stimulating and soul-southing at the same time. It will stay with me for quite awhile.

Richard and Pascal

Accommodations:
Guesthouse La Campagna, Via Roma 3-5. Tel:333-39-99-639. Email: amirri1@alice.it. 2 one-room apartments with kitchenette and breakfast, 25 euros per person.

Published by Retirement Reflections

Prior to retirement, I lived and worked in Beijing China for fourteen years (Middle School Principal/Deputy Director at The Western Academy of Beijing). Leaving international life behind, my husband and I retired to Vancouver Island in June 2015. To document both this transition and our new adventures, ‘Retirement Reflections’ was born. I hope that you enjoy reading these reflections, and will be willing to share your own.

50 thoughts on “Day 21: Sutri to Monterosi”

  1. What I would do with an extra day: look for museums or art galleries in the area, or if there are none, head for a market, park or beach. (I’d suggest a trail too, but you probably need a break from walking!!!!).
    Meeting people like Pascal would be the raison d’etre (spelling?) for a camino, for me. I love to meet people who are thinking/searching/living outside the box.

    Deb

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  2. To have an extra day, I would enjoy the walking without feeling pressed , take my time, stop often and simply be. We are too often rushed to get to our destination instead of enjoying the journey. Reading you makes me want to walk again. The Camino is often more about the people we meet. You inspire us! Thank you fo sharing your walking experiences.

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  3. If I had an extra day, I’d probably continue to walk. It’s really too beautiful to stop. Plus, you might run into Pascal again…he sure looks like a friendly person. Enjoy, Donna!

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  4. Hello! I want to thank you for allowing me yo follow your posts. They are great help for my planning of our soon to start Via Francigena. My husband and I are starting in GSB on August 15th and we seem to have a similar pace to yours! I am writing down all your accommodations and tips!!! Your information is very valuable!!! Thanks again! Buen Camino!!!
    Dolores.

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  5. Hi Donna and Richard! I agree that the people you would meet on the walk would be as much (or more!) valuable than the walk itself. I LOVE hearing how some people are using it to rediscover what is most important to them. How wonderfully inspiring such stories are to us all. And yes, glad you got to take some rest along your path. ~Kathy

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  8. Meeting new people and listening to their stories (everyone has a story) usually highlight the trip. An extra day is a gift, especially in the area where you are. Thanks, Donna, for sharing your Camino experiences and photos.

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  10. What to do with an extra day? Great question … probably keep on walking but at a more leisurely pace. Your daily walks were lonnnng – I’d love to have the sense of walking and stopping here and there for a coffee or a beer and a delightful something to savour –

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  11. This may be. a duplicate response Donna … I’d love to have a day to spare with no destination in mind and to be a bit aimless maybe stopping here and there for a coffee or a beer or a gelato …

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  13. Thank you for mentioning me in such a respectful and warm-hearted way, Donna!

    Live long and prosper (this also goes out to the nice people, leaving their comments). See you in Rome. 🙂

    Ps.: … got a haircut today and I feel reborn. 😀

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    1. Pascal: we feel we know and like you very much, via Donna’s blog! Cheers to you. I like your style, and yes sometimes a small thing like haircut can help us to feel renewed. In addition to what walking and thinking can do – very therapeutic. Walking has always been therapy for me.

      Susan Grace

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    2. Hi, Pascal – Thank you for reading and commenting. I love that our discussions included ‘A Walk in the Woods’ (a mutually favorite book) and Star Wars (totally lost on me, but I greatly appreciated your insights). Wishing you a very positive entrance into Rome!

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      1. … hi Donna, I was referring to Star Trek. 😉

        Thanks for your kind words. I am in Rome now and I will get in touch.
        Have a good remaining trek to Rome and say hi to Richard. 🙂

        -Pascal

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  14. I appreciate you blogging in every post about many of the “real moments” you encountered, such as sometimes ending up on a shoulderless roadway. Interesting about the people you have met along the way. Your posts had to be concise and hopefully you did not feel pressure to write. You likely have many more stories to share. Fun to read and follow you and Richard along:)

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    1. Hi, Erica – I hadn’t originally planned to post daily. Quickly, it just became part of my routine. I am now grateful for this opportunity. It has helped to preserve our memories…and the encouragement from others has made a very positive difference!

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  15. Wow, your photos of your journeys are both beautiful and fun! So much wonderful scenery. Crazy about walking on the shoulder less roads, but seems safe enough. So great you had an extra day to really be at leisure, Donna. I can’t believe you’re on day 21!

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  16. It’s not the first time I’ve heard that the encounters with other walkers on the Camino are a significant part of the experience.

    It seems you’ve calibrated your time on the trail very well. It’s so much better to have the extra time rather than being in a rush. Enjoy!

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  18. It all works out for the best! Decisions, decisions – I write about that n my latest blog but for some reason it’s not reaching my subscribers. and I’m not able to reach happiness engineers, I’m kind of glum about it but your post lifted my spirits.

    There are always hidden or not so hidden reasons behind an unexpected occurrence and in order to take the next right step, sometimes a wait and see is required, or a rest and regroup.

    As you say, the Camino always provides. This pilgrimage has gifted you another day – what a blessing! I know you will seize it with gusto!

    Susan Grace

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  19. Donna, this time spent with you has been so motivational and I have enjoyed reading your daily snippets and insights. You have provided a great road map for future pilgrims. With the end in sight, I’m wondering about the jumble of emotions you might be experiencing. I imagine it will be bittersweet as you return home. It was wise to give yourself time to decompress in Rome. I do hope that Pascal sorted out his internal conflict. He sounds like a man with integrity and conviction.

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    1. Hi, Suzanne – Comments like yours have made sharing these daily posts extremely rewarding. Your thinking is spot on. As we are now less than 45 km from Rome, my mixed emotions are just beginning to surface. This will take more reflection, and the reality of reaching our long-sought destination. More on this to follow!

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  22. Hi Donna – so glad you’re going to meet Pascal again – he does sound an interesting character. Love the photos … and I can imagine meeting the many pilgrims and locals along the way – which must make all the difference. Cheers Hilary

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  23. Hi, Hilary – Richard and I just finished having lunch with Pascal near St. Peter’s Square. From there, he was headed to the train station to begin his trip back to Germany. The people whom you meet along the way can have a big impact on your Camino overall experience.

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