Hiking, Via Francigena

Day 10: Ponte d’Arbia to Torrenieri

Distance Walked: 19.6 km (door to door).
Time: 7 hours (including rest stops and a LONG lunch break).
Weather: Cloud coverage with a steady, cool breeze for the last 5 km.

Our Route: The traditional Via Francigena walking section from Ponte d’Arbia ends in San Quirico, 26+ km. As Tuscany provides endless hills to climb and descend, and because we have the time, we decided to modify this route and end today in Torrenieri. It was the perfect decision for us that led to a very relaxed pace…and some wonderful perks.

Nope, we didn’t hop on this motorbike…but it was tempting!

Perk 1:  Quite unintentionally, we began this day without coffee. Honestly, I think that was harder on Richard than beginning yesterday without water. In Buonconvento, we passed a gas station with a coffee vending machine. As I hurried  back to get our caffeine-fix, I ran into Karen (from Day 8). We hadn’t expected to see her again as she is walking at a much faster pace. It was a great final catch-up…and yes, we commiserated about the Tuscan hills…and yesterday’s weather!

Perk 2 – The Lunch – 10 km into our day we spied a sign from Caparzo Winery offering a ‘Pilgrim Lunch’ (sandwich, bottled water and glass of wine) for 7 euros. You didn’t need to tell us twice. We were there!

Perk 3: As there were no pilgrim accommodations listed for Torrenieri, I reserved a last minute special on Booking.com. When we arrived at the address given, I was sure that there must have been a mistake. The owner toured us around a fully equipped apartment with kitchen, living room, laundry room, luxurious bedroom and private bath…just for the two of us! She had stocked bottled water (both sparking and still) in the fridge, as well as fresh eggs. There was also coffee and a large assortment of teas. Had we actually died somewhere on the trail and this was our Heaven? Our tired bodies and feet relaxed instantly!

Accommodations: I Due Cipressi. Via San Giovanni 29. Tel: +393450208245. Email: i2cipressi@gmail.com. Cost: 59.60 euros (one night’s stay). Considerations: This apartment is attached to a large home that includes other vacation rentals. On the evening of our stay, bustling activity could be heard well past our bedtime.

Tomorrow’s Destination: Castilone d’Orcia.



40 thoughts on “Day 10: Ponte d’Arbia to Torrenieri”

    1. Thanks so much, Kathy – I greatly appreciate your warm thoughts. Sleeping has not been a problem for me on this trail. As soon as my head touches a pillow….I’m “lights out” for at least eight hours! :Looking forward to your July visit!


    1. Hi, Ann – I have weird feet (very wide toes and narrow heels). Hiking boots and trail shoes can be difficult for me. On our last Camino, I wore Brooke’s trail shoes — which worked well for me…but they no longer make that model. This year I went with a similar trail shoe made by a different company. They worked well during my practice hikes – but really killed me toes by the afternoon of our long consecutive walks. I had Teva hiking sandals with me, just in case. So far, so good!

      Liked by 1 person

  1. I have been called many things in my time but never a Perk…I like it!
    I had a bit of a chuckle when I passed (note the word ‘passed’…not ‘diverted into’… 😁 🍷) Carpanzo; I knew that Pilgrim Break offer had your names all over it! I was tempted but it was a bit early & I had further to go.
    So glad tonight brings you the Holy Grail of Walking…the humble Washing Machine…so rare & so prized. You can only handwash for so long… 🙂


  2. You look so relaxed sitting there with your – well-deserved, I might add – glass of wine. I’m afraid if I drank in the middle of the day like that (yes, even just a single glass) I’d be looking for a nice, soft, shady spot to take a nap. I finally got smart and looked at my currency converter app to see what the euros to US dollar exchange rate was… those are really good accommodation prices!


  3. How different from when we walked these same km! This same winery was the one that suggested we wait outside in the howling wind, just to place an order. And the only accomodation we found on booking.com that night was a vastly overpriced – more than you paid – spare bedroom with a shared bathroom – at the highest point of the town! Loving travelling along with you!


    1. Hi, Lisa – Your comment is very helpful in showing just how different the Francigena can be — especially since you only walked one month before me. I’m greatly looking forward to reading your final posts!


  4. Your posts are VERY entertaining and informative. I am already on my 2nd glass of wine enjoying each day of your adventure:). You are definitely a resourceful woman, Donna. You and Richard seem to have a Plan A, B, C when booking accommodations. The ‘died on the trail and this is heaven was a lol moment for me:)


  5. Hi Donna – oh I can understand your wish to jump on the moped – but good kids you are! Wonderful views … and how amazing about the stop at Torrenieri … and taking time out – makes perfect sense. It does sound as though it’s all going so well – I’m not catching up – but am on my way to reading … onwards I go! Loving the posts etc – Cheers Hilary


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s