Hiking, Via Francigena

Day 13: Radicofani to Proceno

Decisions, Decisions, Decisions!

The traditional route for this section of the Via Francigena is from Radicofani to Acquapendente. The problem is that the path takes you along a busy, shoulderless highway for several kilometers. What’s a hiker to do?

After planning and scheming, we found these key options.

1. Take your chances. Although not recommended, many walkers have done this…and lived to tell the tale. 24 km.

2. Take the bus. Our guidebook recommends using alternative transportation, especially for the “decidedly dangerous” section from Centento to Acquapendente.

3. Take your time. By detouring through Proceno, you add 7.7 km to your trip, and increase the “altitude difference ascent” from 220m to 600m. You also avoid the roads and increase your scenic views.

What route would you choose? We went with option #3…with a twist. We are staying the night in Proceno, where we are currently enjoying a well deserved gelato. After a 26.8 km hike (and a brand new blister on ny heel)…at least we think so!

Accommodations: Ostello Del Pellegrino, Piazza della Libertà, Proceno. 339-258-6470. 4 single beds in bedroom (plus 2 additional fold-up beds and couch in kitchen/sitting room). 10 euros per person. Kitchen use available.



40 thoughts on “Day 13: Radicofani to Proceno”

  1. i love your easy style of writing and the fine detail of your accommodation
    . Blister or not keep on walking.


  2. Exactly…what’s the rush? I’m glad you went with option three, Donna. Walking on a shoulderless highway sounds a little risky. I think Richard needs to send that first photo of you into J Crew…you’d make a great model for them. Thanks for sharing your journey. Stay safe!


  3. I think you made just the right choice! Bummer about the blister, but I imagine you’ve brought bandages to deal with them. I love your top picture of the artichokes. We have a volunteer plant in our yard and we’ve been eating them before they get a chance to develop that lovely purple fuzz… but we may leave a few for the color.


  4. Yes!..it was a bit hairy on that section before turning up the old road to Radicofani. A few close-ish calls on blind bends but clearly I lived to tell the tale & so did the two Germans (David & Janina) behind me.
    I’m in Bolsena tonight…fortuitously it’s the festival for the local Saint. However you should time it for the Hydrangea festival (3 day event) & they are beautiful.
    Tomorrow will be very hot (mid 30’s C) so take extra care…& extra water!
    Enjoy x


  5. Oops! Sorry…my post should have said ‘old road to Aquapendente’ not Radicofani!
    How has she made it this far….?! 🤭


  6. I would definitely have avoided the road especially with Italian drivers. I might have caught the bus so I admire you persevering.


  7. Oh, no, a blister. Oh, no! Hope your evening stay allowed you time to recuperate a bit. And that the scenic views are breathtaking.


  8. Definitely a well deserved gelato… and a good decision to stay the night. Sorry to hear about the blister. Maybe some good local red wine will help it to heel.


  9. Option # 3 the only true choice. Watch the blisters, band aids , rest and wine – all winning combinations. Beautiful vistas. We are Living the Camino vicariously through you. Be safe. B&D


  10. Option 3. It’s a no brainer. I am wondering if you have stuff for blisters, we met some new Zealanders walking to base camp who had sheep’s wool to wrap around your toes etc to stop or cushion blisters. I am doing this hike, definitely. I need to retire first though. Avanti, sempre avanti. Siete bravi!!!!


    1. Hi, Joanne – The first time that a colleague told me that she had just walked 700 km in 40 days (Spanish Camino) I wondered why…and how! The next summer Richard and I walked 110 km in 8 days. We became totally hooked! 🙂


  11. Hi Donna – me too … I’d do #3 … but don’t fancy the blisters! You are doing wonders and I’m loving seeing the journey with you … my feet rest easy! Cheers Hilary


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s