Today’s Numbers:
Distance Walked: 18 km (felt like 30 km)
Time Walking: 6 hours (including breaks)
Altitude Difference Ascent: 580m
Altitude Difference Descent: 290m
Temperatures: High of 29C
Guide Book Rating: Average
Our Rating: Deceptively Difficult
Summary:
Last night, we spied a coffee vending machine outside of our dorm room. First thing this morning, Richard was on it! He came back empty-handed saying that the machine had a sign on it reading “O Soe”…which he assumed meant “broken”. I went to investigate. The handwritten sign read: “0.50€”. Lost in translation!
The gracious Lake Bolsena escorted us out of town, all of the way to Montefiascone…although she sometimes hid from our view.
1:30 hours out of town, we saw these signs posted together on the “official” trail. We entered cautiously, but never did see or hear the “cane” mentioned!
Our guidebook had warned us that there would be no shops, cafes or water fountains available on today’s route. Two hours outside of Bolsena, we came across a lovely picnic area, and water fountain, where we had our lunch. (There was also another fountain just before the city limits of Montefiascone.)
Richard is currently out exploring, while I have crashed on the bed. Our accommodations tonight came highly recommended by Peter from Czech Republic, who we met in Ponte d’Arbia. Peter has just finished high school and is walking solo from Rome to Prague in order to celebrate!
Accommodations:
Monastero di San Pietro, Via Garibaldi 31. Telephone: 0761-82–60-66. Email: benedettineapmf@gmail.com. 30 euros, per person, for (private) room with en-suite bathroom, dinner and breakfast.
Total Numbers To Date:
Distance Walked: 307.4 km
Distance to Rome: 100 km. (120+ km on the VF trail). Average Cost of Accommodations Per Night: 34.92 euros ($52.03 CDN, $34.62 USD). Current Pack Weight with 1L water: 6kg
Happy Father’s Day to all Dads our there, especially: Shea Wageman, Cory Wageman, Shaun, Wageman, David Manarin and of course, Richard!
Retirement Reflections 
What a bummer about the vending machine, Donna, but I’m happy your discovered the nice picnic area. “Richard is currently out exploring (more likely having a “cold one”). LOL! Happy Father’s Day to Richard…cheers!
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Thanks, Jill – The vending machine turned out well…except, I put in a two-euro coin…and received four espressos! We were a bit coffeed-out after that! 🙂
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I love my morning coffee Donna and can’t function without it! Mike’s aunt who lives in Southern Italy makes the most delicious coffee with warm milk and sugar. I don’t usually take sugar but her coffee is divine. A beautiful setting for your picnic lunch. xx
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Thanks, Sue – Richard has gone three full mornings without coffee on this trip. It has been physically tougher on him than he expected. Mike’s aunt’s coffee sounds delicious!
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I like the 100 km to Rome!!!
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We like that too!
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Richard is starting to look like a Millennial with that beard! I guess it doesn’t make much sense to bother with shaving while on the trial… true freedom! Thanks once again for taking us along with you.
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Thanks for coming along, Janis! Richard and I have greatly appreciated your comments!
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Freudian slip with your typo in your comment above. trial – trail.
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Haha! Good one!
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It is a perfect Freudian slip. I wish I had made it myself!
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Oops. Just realised the comment belongs to retiredmentally challenged not retirement reflections! I have my “Monday morning day off” eyes in my head. Sorry. Sound like some days the trail is a trial in any case. Louise
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Yes, you would certainly need more water than those two bottles and hopefully, you had more food at other stops. Kia kaha, for your next day.
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Thanks, Suzanne – The bottles of water in the photos were only our “lunch water”. I also carry another liter of water for hiking in my pack…as does Richard. It’s hot out there! 🙂
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Hi Donna,
Hope Richard found his cold one! Happy Fathers Day to him!
307.4 km is a lot of walking.
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Thanks, Nancy – Richard just had his Father’s Day foot massage. I think that he wS very happy with that! 🙂
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Lost in translation indeed! I love your honesty Donna, 19km felt like 30km!! Enjoy 🙂
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Thanks, Debbie. The “O Soe” gave us a good morning chuckle. In Richard’s defense, the handwritten was very loose.
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The trouble with carrying water is carrying water. Its heavy but a necessary load. You guys rock!
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This is so true about backpacking and water! Thank you for the kind words! 🙂
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Are you replacing sodium and potassium? Might get some bananas. Or oral hydration powder or drinks at the drug store. Coconut milk may also help. Ann
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Hi, Ann – This is an excellent reminder. We have been eating a fairly healthy diet, with lots of bananas. Coconut milk is also a good idea…if I can find it!
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If you are ready for a treat, or a recommended rest day, book La Mia Cassata in Sutri. We loved it, and it is a nice place to catch your breath before the final push.
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Thank you so much for this recommendation, Lisa. We’ll definitely check it out. BTW – How were the views from here to Rome?
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Ha ha to the 0.50€ – the sort of thing I’d do!
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Thanks, Anabel – With the handwriting, the mistake was easy to make. Still, it totally cracked us up!
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I can’t get over how far you are walking. Glad Richard got his coffee!
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Hi, Sam – It’s amazing how quickly the daily long distance walking becomes routine. Today’s 18 km literally sped past!
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Donna, I can just picture you scratching your head and mumbling “really” when Richard came back with no coffee.Leave it to a woman to get the job done!
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My Italian is not great…but “O Soe” did not sound remotely familiar! 🙂
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Hi Donna, Reading your blog is part of my reward system lol. I really like the formula you have created for journaling your days. 29C very hot long day for walking. Interesting phrase “deceptively difficult.” The sign pointing to Orvieto rings a bell – possibly a reference in a book. All of your posts are getting bookmarked and pinned:
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Hi, Erica – Thank you for this very positive feedback. It is greatly appreciated.
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Hi Donna – love the walk along to Montefiascone … looks to be quite delightful. Great Richard got his coffee – glad you checked the machine out. Excellent you’re getting lots of recommendations of places to stay … cheers Hilary
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Thanks, Hilary – The “pilgrim’s network” can be invaluable for life on the trail!
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Did you see a lot of people on the trail each day, or were there times that you mostly had it to yourselves?
Jude
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We mostly had the trail to ourselves. When we did see other pilgrims it was usually at the hostels or at a cafe or restaurant. That lead us to create the conspiracy theory that most other pilgrims had taken the bus! 🙂
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